Friday, July 18, 2008

Versailles, palace of spoiled French monarchs

We started today with a trip to Versailles (which was a bit difficult to get to, particularly if you include getting on the wrong train for a few stops), and we got to the little town outside of Paris by lunchtime. After some crepes at a tourist trap, we headed into the area of the château itself.


There was a long line for tickets. A very long line. An hour and a half long, to be precise. In the sun. But, that was that. Had we realized this in advance, there were some alternatives I'd recommend to future travelers (french museum pass or paying extra for the guided tour). Anyway, we continued onto the gardens, which were amazing.


There were pathways hidden among the trees, canals, flowers. It was a shame the fountains weren't turned on. People rented bicycles, golf carts, segways, and rowboats to get around. We walked. Since the gardens themselves are free, any Parisian looking to relax on the weekend should head out there for a picnic; bring wine, bread, and sunscreen. Anyway, we had some ice cream and enjoyed the outdoors before heading off to the old house of Marie Antoinette (before they beheaded her).


She had her own private estate near Versailles, where she liked to think and whatnot. I have a feeling she never really appreciated what kind of luxury she was living in. She had a private theatre (in a separate building!) where she and her friends could see a play, she had a private garden with fake rocks, ponds, and gazebos, and she had more well-groomed trees than you can shake a fist at.


Anyway, after that we saw the other non-château estate, which may have been for more official functions, I'm not sure which was used for what. It's the Grand Trianon, whereas Marie's place was the Petit Trianon. It had a lot of nice rooms, and it's own set of lovely gardens. One thing I've noticed is that they must have all been short, judging by the beds.


We took a mini train back to the main château, though it took as long as walking and was, for me, far less comfortable. Trains simply were not meant for uneven cobblestone surfaces.

Anyway, back at the real palace at Versailles, we got a look at Louis XIV's chapel, his bedroom, and, of course, at the hall of mirrors:


It was an overall very impressive estate, with more pomp and circumstance than anyone ever needs. Louis couldn't have any corner undecorated, from the fireplaces, to the candelabras, to the ceilings.


I also liked the use of wall paper, gilding, and sculpture to emphasize the importance of gratuitous opulence.


He also liked marble:


On our way out, I noticed the railings had little emblems on them, particularly sun emblems. (He was known as the "sun king", after all.) I thought that was a nice touch.


We took the train back to Paris and had a simple dinner. Despite how tired we were, I wanted to go to the top of the Eiffel tower before leaving the city. There was a long line, despite the late hour (oh, this was a day of waiting in lines!), and it had gone from hot to cold as the sun was setting, but we made it up to watch the sun set from the second level, and to see the city lights in the twilight from the top.


Afterwards, we walked back to the hotel exhausted from our full day of walking and waiting in lines. Tomorrow we head to London for our last day in Europe. The only thing we have planned is a spa appointment at the Mandarin Oriental London, which is a nice way to end our European vacation.

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